Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Lower Talus Field Beta

Here are a few problems from the Burst Rock Lower Talus Field. First of all I would like to start with a note about the grades. At the time of this post most things have seen 1 or two ascents max. As always grades are subject to change with the realization of new beta, and/or breakages. I will try to keep things as up to date as possible in that regard. Let me know any proposed grade changes.
The Little Roof that Could (V6/7). ***

Sit start low in the small cave. Right hand on the sidepull jug, left hand on the undercling. Pull up and make a crux move right. Hold some tension and move out to the lip to encounter a easy mantel. Crimps along the lip are there in abundance for your top out pleasure. Height Dependant.















Conversations with Marmot--V7.****

Sit start matched on a sloping jug. Move out right using lots of tension on bad holds. Hit the arete and climb up to the apex of the boulder. Do not leave food out here as marmots will dine on your dime.








Get Shorty-V5***
Sit start this short arete and climb up using slopers and sidepulls. The crimps to the left are tempting but make the line much harder.
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U-Turn--v7****

Stand start with a right hand sidepull pinch and a bad left crimp. Pull up and grab a key sloper. Next, dyno to a jug and hold the crazy horizontal swing. Match the Jug and pull over to a weird grab for that jug that seems just out of reach. Pads needed for the end. A spotter would be nice as well. The end will be very hard for the short.

The Ribbion--V4***

The Ribbon is a classic overhanging climb. Sit start with a left hand pinch and a right hand Crimp climb straight up to a easy but fun mantel.

The Supernova Project V?****

This is one I have my eye on. Think Toxic Avenger. What I am trying is to sit start at the jugs. Climb up and right using the sloper rail and dyno for the bad sloper lip. Get your feet on and dyno into the mantel. Decient grips up and right seem a bit out of reach for the short. Out left you can see the small hueco that could be used by taller folks, however the end will be much harder as you will need to either make the hard mantel or traverse the lip to the better holds out right. The picture is deciving this thing is STEEP.

Orange JuliusV7/8****

Sit start on down in the small pit and climb up and right on perfect crimpers to a jug rail. Drop from the jug or try the death defying top out that might be bout 25' off the deck over horrible rocks. The Gem of the area so far. Picture does not do this justice. Sit to the jug has been done is about V7/8.

Ray Bones--V2*

Squat start on a left hand undercling right hand side pull make a tension move to the lip and mantel. The sit start goes somewhere around the V5 to V6 Range. Hard pull into underclings gains the stand.

That's it for this installment. Hopefully before the week is up I have a few more lines to report back. I have a ton more projects that I need to photo and submit.

Hope to see you out there soon!

P.S. Sorry for the weird picture format. I will get it right next time.

2 comments:

  1. Damn Ant Man! That is a sick looking area, and you are going to TOWN! some day I'll see you out there! -Paulito

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