More Lower Talus Beta

Well the finding, sending, and documenting continues up at Burst Rock. The area is yielding more steep featured granite lines than I originally thought existed. The more time I spend up there the more lines I find hidden in strange places. There are a few highballs I have been eyeing but only sent a few, as most of the time I have been alone in the woods...

So far I have not really jumped into any hard projects, but the low start to U-Turn hopefully will go down in the next day or two. I think it will be the hardest thing up there currently, however its height dependant so who's knows.

Lance put up a new line that for the grade is quite fun. He named it Angels and Airwaves. See below for the beta.

On another note, things have been progressing well up there but I am finding the process of exploration, and sending to be more difficult that I had originally anticipated. To realize a line, figure out the beta, and pull it down, all on your own, takes a lot of energy. I am finding it to be enjoyable and exciting, but the computer work sucks =).

I really hope this sparks something in the climbing community. People always say "the community this, the community that." If you want to stoke up your local climbing community do something to get people there and promote responsible activity in your area. Don't charge for some crappy guide you made or try and flip it for a buck or free gear somehow. Find a way to communicate it with the community for free... really was it that much work?

With that said, if you take the time to do a real guide like the bishop bouldering guide, you have my 40 bucks in a heart beat.

Back to the guide.

I'm working on the overview of certian areas. It's hard to get right so it will take some time. Soon though.... but until then here are some more lines that went up since my last post.

Escape from L.A. V3

Sit start on nice crimps. Move up to the slopers and mantel a large block. Tricky diehedral climbing gains the jugs near the top. About 20 feet tall. Bad photo, but one of the best lines here.

The missing dolomites V3

Start in the three huecos one for each hand and a large one for your feet. Hit the lip and traverse the lip left to a fun mantel. Short and Sweet!

Angels and Airwaves V1

A outstanding old school line, Angels and airwaves starts low on the jug rail and traverses to the arete. Once you hit the arete make your way up the bullet knobs to the top. For the grade its a must do. FA Lance Kimble 2009

Climbing on up, to the west side (V2)

Start in the cave and climb the good crimps and slopers all the way to the apex.

Cool Hand Lance V0

Start on the jugs and follow jugs to the slab.

The Elixir V4

Start on the flat crimpers and move to the arete. Use the arete, and crimps to gain the top of the boulder. Good line, but don't dab on the last move.

The Marvolus Moderate V1

Another classic of the area. Tall, bullet rock, nice movement, and excellent views. This is great. Start on an undercling and a sidepull, and move to a jug. Use the arete to mantel and move right to crimps and a sloper jug to mantel. Spicy but doable for just about anyone.

The Planet Earth Project V Hard

Slopers and bad feet give way to more bad slopers and then... jugs and crimps to top out. It's taller than it looks.

Rock n Roll Friday's V1

Start on a jug climb up huge holds that are just not good enough and hit the crux mantel. Take care not to damage the environment around the boulders, it was there first.

The Sock Hop V2

Start on a sidepull undercling and a crimp move to a crimp rail with some tricky foot rail match and hit jugs.

Stand up to your right V1

The right line is a nice crimp face with what seems like a bad landing. Can't make the next move? step back on the boulder, figure it out, and re-try.

The Left is a project probably in the V5 Range. Not much time has been put into it but it goes and seems good.

Tension Among Friends V4, and Star Ship Troopers V3

The Left line is Tension Among Friends Start on the giant sloping block. Move to sidepulls and underclings with lots of tension. Hit the lip and pull the mantel. Fun Slab at the top.

The Right Line is Star Ship Troopers. Start on a bad sloper and a nice crimp. Using some foot trickery climb up and left to a jug. Pull a weird move to gain the arete and climb the arete that is loaded with foot jugs. Tall and worthy.

The Granite Tufa V0

A really cool find, even if its an eliminate. Climb the tufa to the top.

The Jugornot V2

Steep Jug Haul. Starts from the lowest set of holds. Bad photo good line.

To Boldly Go Project V Hard.

Sit on bad crimps using slopers and other cool holds make your way to the top to a hard mantel.

Lower Talus Field Beta

Here are a few problems from the Burst Rock Lower Talus Field. First of all I would like to start with a note about the grades. At the time of this post most things have seen 1 or two ascents max. As always grades are subject to change with the realization of new beta, and/or breakages. I will try to keep things as up to date as possible in that regard. Let me know any proposed grade changes.

The Little Roof that Could (V6/7). ***

Sit start low in the small cave. Right hand on the sidepull jug, left hand on the undercling. Pull up and make a crux move right. Hold some tension and move out to the lip to encounter a easy mantel. Crimps along the lip are there in abundance for your top out pleasure. Height Dependant.

Conversations with Marmot--V7.****

Sit start matched on a sloping jug. Move out right using lots of tension on bad holds. Hit the arete and climb up to the apex of the boulder. Do not leave food out here as marmots will dine on your dime.

Get Shorty-V5***

Sit start this short arete and climb up using slopers and sidepulls. The crimps to the left are tempting but make the line much harder.

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U-Turn--v7****

Stand start with a right hand sidepull pinch and a bad left crimp. Pull up and grab a key sloper. Next, dyno to a jug and hold the crazy horizontal swing. Match the Jug and pull over to a weird grab for that jug that seems just out of reach. Pads needed for the end. A spotter would be nice as well. The end will be very hard for the short.

The Ribbion--V4***

The Ribbon is a classic overhanging climb. Sit start with a left hand pinch and a right hand Crimp climb straight up to a easy but fun mantel.

The Supernova Project V?****

This is one I have my eye on. Think Toxic Avenger. What I am trying is to sit start at the jugs. Climb up and right using the sloper rail and dyno for the bad sloper lip. Get your feet on and dyno into the mantel. Decient grips up and right seem a bit out of reach for the short. Out left you can see the small hueco that could be used by taller folks, however the end will be much harder as you will need to either make the hard mantel or traverse the lip to the better holds out right. The picture is deciving this thing is STEEP.

Orange JuliusV7/8****

Sit start on down in the small pit and climb up and right on perfect crimpers to a jug rail. Drop from the jug or try the death defying top out that might be bout 25' off the deck over horrible rocks. The Gem of the area so far. Picture does not do this justice. Sit to the jug has been done is about V7/8.

Ray Bones--V2*

Squat start on a left hand undercling right hand side pull make a tension move to the lip and mantel. The sit start goes somewhere around the V5 to V6 Range. Hard pull into underclings gains the stand.

That's it for this installment. Hopefully before the week is up I have a few more lines to report back. I have a ton more projects that I need to photo and submit.

Hope to see you out there soon!

P.S. Sorry for the weird picture format. I will get it right next time.

Burst Rock Talus Field General Overview

The Burst Rock Talus Field holds maybe the most potential for hard bouldering on the Sonora Pass. This area has been scouted by a few boulders but due to its location has not seen many ascents.

The Talus Field sits at about 8,000' elevation and is a summer climbing spot. I was there when it was 100 degrees at Columbia and it was comfortable climbing (70's). The area is not climbable during the winter and snow stays around until June or July depending on the amount of snow that year. The roads close at the big snow so the window is only open in the middle of the summer.

The problems here vary from easy lowballs to possible double digit highballs. There is a lot of clean rock and a lot of potential for climbing.

The Burst Rock Bouldering consists of five sub areas. The Upper Talus, Lower Talus, Meadow Boulders, Entry Way Boulders, and the Hill Top Boulders. The Lower Talus Field holds the most potential for hard steep lines, while the Hill Top Boulders have the least amount of concentrated boulder problems but is the easiest to get to.

To find the talus field Drive about a half hour outside of Twain Harte, East on Hwy 108. After you pass the town of Cold Springs (the closest Gas, and Food) you will come upon Crab Tree Road on our right. Take this road for about 15 minuets. It will transfer from paved to gravel at a horse stable used for backpacking into the emigrant wilderness. Keep straight on this road (do not turn off) until you hit the Gianelli Trail Head. Park Here.

From here you have about a one mile hike to the boulder field. Follow the main trail into the emigrant wilderness until you hit a small wooden sign. Hang a left here and follow the climbing trail to the top of the cliff. If you look left you will see the wash that will lead you safely to the talus field. If you look right you will see the vast talus fields. Keep in mind even some of the smaller visible boulders are about the size of a small house.

Toss your pads down the wash and head down. Keep in mind you will want to save a bit of energy for the hike out the wash(its the hard part of the day).

That's the approach. From my house with me driving like a old man, I am a bit shy of 1 hour from the trail head to the boulder field. The hike down takes me about 15 minuets. Estimate your travel based upon a map quest trip to Twain Harte (95383)

Welcome To the Guide

Hello all,
Welcome to your free Sonora Pass Bouldering Guide.
I will post based upon areas.
Hit me up if you feel like bouldering on the pass anytime.

Anthony