More Lower Talus Beta

Well the finding, sending, and documenting continues up at Burst Rock. The area is yielding more steep featured granite lines than I originally thought existed. The more time I spend up there the more lines I find hidden in strange places. There are a few highballs I have been eyeing but only sent a few, as most of the time I have been alone in the woods...

So far I have not really jumped into any hard projects, but the low start to U-Turn hopefully will go down in the next day or two. I think it will be the hardest thing up there currently, however its height dependant so who's knows.

Lance put up a new line that for the grade is quite fun. He named it Angels and Airwaves. See below for the beta.

On another note, things have been progressing well up there but I am finding the process of exploration, and sending to be more difficult that I had originally anticipated. To realize a line, figure out the beta, and pull it down, all on your own, takes a lot of energy. I am finding it to be enjoyable and exciting, but the computer work sucks =).

I really hope this sparks something in the climbing community. People always say "the community this, the community that." If you want to stoke up your local climbing community do something to get people there and promote responsible activity in your area. Don't charge for some crappy guide you made or try and flip it for a buck or free gear somehow. Find a way to communicate it with the community for free... really was it that much work?

With that said, if you take the time to do a real guide like the bishop bouldering guide, you have my 40 bucks in a heart beat.

Back to the guide.

I'm working on the overview of certian areas. It's hard to get right so it will take some time. Soon though.... but until then here are some more lines that went up since my last post.

Escape from L.A. V3

Sit start on nice crimps. Move up to the slopers and mantel a large block. Tricky diehedral climbing gains the jugs near the top. About 20 feet tall. Bad photo, but one of the best lines here.

The missing dolomites V3

Start in the three huecos one for each hand and a large one for your feet. Hit the lip and traverse the lip left to a fun mantel. Short and Sweet!

Angels and Airwaves V1

A outstanding old school line, Angels and airwaves starts low on the jug rail and traverses to the arete. Once you hit the arete make your way up the bullet knobs to the top. For the grade its a must do. FA Lance Kimble 2009

Climbing on up, to the west side (V2)

Start in the cave and climb the good crimps and slopers all the way to the apex.

Cool Hand Lance V0

Start on the jugs and follow jugs to the slab.

The Elixir V4

Start on the flat crimpers and move to the arete. Use the arete, and crimps to gain the top of the boulder. Good line, but don't dab on the last move.

The Marvolus Moderate V1

Another classic of the area. Tall, bullet rock, nice movement, and excellent views. This is great. Start on an undercling and a sidepull, and move to a jug. Use the arete to mantel and move right to crimps and a sloper jug to mantel. Spicy but doable for just about anyone.

The Planet Earth Project V Hard

Slopers and bad feet give way to more bad slopers and then... jugs and crimps to top out. It's taller than it looks.

Rock n Roll Friday's V1

Start on a jug climb up huge holds that are just not good enough and hit the crux mantel. Take care not to damage the environment around the boulders, it was there first.

The Sock Hop V2

Start on a sidepull undercling and a crimp move to a crimp rail with some tricky foot rail match and hit jugs.

Stand up to your right V1

The right line is a nice crimp face with what seems like a bad landing. Can't make the next move? step back on the boulder, figure it out, and re-try.

The Left is a project probably in the V5 Range. Not much time has been put into it but it goes and seems good.

Tension Among Friends V4, and Star Ship Troopers V3

The Left line is Tension Among Friends Start on the giant sloping block. Move to sidepulls and underclings with lots of tension. Hit the lip and pull the mantel. Fun Slab at the top.

The Right Line is Star Ship Troopers. Start on a bad sloper and a nice crimp. Using some foot trickery climb up and left to a jug. Pull a weird move to gain the arete and climb the arete that is loaded with foot jugs. Tall and worthy.

The Granite Tufa V0

A really cool find, even if its an eliminate. Climb the tufa to the top.

The Jugornot V2

Steep Jug Haul. Starts from the lowest set of holds. Bad photo good line.

To Boldly Go Project V Hard.

Sit on bad crimps using slopers and other cool holds make your way to the top to a hard mantel.